mostly berlin

the bargain book shop

2011-12-02T16:09:00.008+01:00

when a friend told me he was going to open a pop-up store in december, and it was going to be a shop for discounted illustrated books, i thought: oh that's going to be dangerous --- for me!

and it is indeed. i could spend hours browsing the architecture, art, design and photography books, leafing through their thick pages, mulling over which ones to get. i'm really quite partial to some steidl books i have seen, and some architecture tomes, and a book on japanese art, and... most of them are half price, which makes it very difficult to stay reasonable. you may well set out to get a xmas present and end up sneaking in an extra book (or two) for yourself into the shopping bag.

good to know: the books are from all over the world, a big proportion of them in english.

the shop is open one month only (until dec 31, 2011). don't miss it!

find it here: the bargain book shop, immanuelkirchstr. 33, 10405 berlin (prenzlauer berg), open mon-sat 11-20h (sun closed), closest station: tram M2, knaackstrasse, the shop's website, on facebook

kolor berlin

2011-10-07T09:35:00.009+02:00

berlin has seen a veritable flood of design shops in the past years, but less than a handful, it seems to me, are original. kolor is different. true, it's small, and you will have to walk five minutes from schoenhauser allee station, but it's so worth it.

kolor berlin is a design studio with a little shop in the front room, which doubles as showroom for the duo's interior design practice. every month, a product is featured, the stock is growing by and by. but give me a small hand-picked selection over swamps of pointless tat anytime.

my faves are without doubt their light features - coloured light cords with simple bulbs, hanging from the ceiling like an art installation. simple table lamps with black, white or copper bases, or lights you can stick between the books on your shelves. i'm also partial to the neon colour theme currently running through various objects, from paper clips to necklaces and luxuriously upcycled desks.

while kolor doesn't run a fully fledged online store yet, you can email them at order(at)kolor.de to enquire about availability, price and shipping of anything you see here or on their site. english spoken.

if in berlin, you should absolutely come to take a look. this is the kind of place where you'll find something to take home for your friends, but most likely something for yourself.

find them here: kolor berlin, kopenhagener str. 64, 10437 berlin / prenzlauer berg. nearest s-bahn/u-bahn/tram stop: schoenhauser allee. phone +49 (0) 30 - 231 801 46, currently open mon-fri 12-19 h. closed sat and sun. enquiries about price, availability and shipping under order(at)kolor.de

ferry rides

2011-09-18T10:20:00.007+02:00

did you know you can ride various ferries in berlin with a simple s-bahn/u-bahn ticket? i love doing it for a day out, preferrably for a picnic, weather permitting (although i have had perfect picnics in stormy weather, not much is stopping me.)

bear in mind though, that these ferries are shuttles, so you must leave at the other end, and if you want to go back straight away, board again. may seem funny, but otherwise the ferries tend to fill up with passengers taking round-trip after round-trip. and there are not too many seats, so go a little early to queue on the pier (say 10-20 mins in advance, 40-45 mins in summer and on sunny days - i'm not kidding you).

check out the BVG (berlin public transport) website for timetables. also note, some ferries only run in the summer. the one across wannsee runs pretty much all year. i once took the ferry in deepest winter, going through drifting ice.

news and a question

2011-09-14T18:49:00.003+02:00

well, hello, it's been a while.

quite a few things have happened:
i've been on holiday to france
nylon korea has featured an interview with me and introduced this blog (a huge thank you, nylon!)
goldhahn & sampson has their new cooking classes up for booking
an exciting tomas saraceno show is opening tonight at hamburger bahnhof, museum for contemporary art

since it's been a bit quiet here lately, i thought i'd ask you what you would like me to feature here - more cafés and restaurants, or shops, or art events and galleries, or walks and random discoveries? anything goes, let me know!

(oh, and before i forget: the images show an evening playing boules with my friends this summer. berlin can be lovely.)

save the date (and some euros)

2011-08-08T10:42:00.004+02:00

soon i will be on holiday, but before i quickly wanted to let you know about two things:

the summer fest at LCB (literary colloquium berlin) in wannsee is coming up fast. sadly, i won't be in town this year, but i have the most wonderful memories about it. the building itself, less than a 5-min walk from the s-bahn station in wannsee, is a rather grand castle'esque villa on a sloped site on the lake. walk around the villa and enjoy the view, the stands where (often small indie) publishers present their books, the atmosphere. food and drinks will be available too. walk down the steepish slope to stand by the water and watch the boats sail by.

readings and books in german, but even if you don't speak german, it's lovely to go.

sommerfest at LCB (literary colloquium)
saturday, 20 august 2011, from 15.30 Uhr
this year's guest of honour: klett-cotta verlag and authors
more info here.

the second thing is for all gardeners and plant lovers:

if you've ever been to the mauerpark fleamarket, you'll be familiar with the garden outlet just by the entrance to the fleamarket site (entrance at bernauer strasse). until the end of august, they are clearing all stock for their summer break. all plants are 50% off. when i was there, i got some herbs and was eyeing some big hydrangeas (which will flower year after year, even if they are past their bloom for this). hurry!

summer sale at blumen und pflanzen wunder
bernauer strasse 52, 13355 berlin, open daily - don't know the exact times, but go between 12.00 and 17.00 and you should be on the safe side!

p.s.: if you go and buy plants, do take a picture and post a link in the comments, i'd love that!

richard long: berlin circle

2011-07-04T23:00:00.002+02:00

there's still a chance to see it:

richard long: berlin circle, at hamburger bahnhof, museum of contemporary art, until july 31, 2011, open tues-fri 10-18h, sat 11-20h, sun 11-18h, mon closed.

if you go, don't forget to stop by the bookshop. you know: pledge to read the printed word and all that.

bixels

2011-06-22T10:23:00.003+02:00

sitting down at bixels' big wooden table with a salad and an apple juice, then a chocolatey chocolate cake with some coffee (oh, the special glasses and oriental looking glass carafes that go with it!) is a very good way to have lunch indeed.

bixels, mulackstr. 38, 10115 berlin, open monday-sat 12-21 h.

p.s.: the oriental style rug caught my eye. like it!

cooking at goldhahn & sampson

2011-05-03T09:53:00.004+02:00

remember i blogged about goldhahn & sampson before? that place is a treasure trove of delicatessen from around the world, and to make it even better, they run a cooking school. i've wanted to take the class on french cuisine for a while, and finally - thanks to a prize i won over at slow travel berlin (thanks a million, paul!) - i did.

jan kreuzinger, who also runs a wine store on neukoelln's weserstrasse, was teaching us not only how to cook the dishes planned for the night - onion soup with gratinéed bread, a salad with duck breast, filet steak with potato gratin, spinach, carrots and red wine braised shallots and (as if we could still eat) a hazelnut crème brulée - but was also answering loads of questions. not only did i eat very well that night and enjoyed good company, i also learned an awful lot.

the range of cooking classes is wide at goldhahn & sampson, so if you're more into thai cuisine, persian cooking, or baking, chances are you'll find something to suit your taste.

for a bigger set of images, take a look here.

find shop and cooking classes here: goldhahn & sampson, dunckerstr. 9, 10437 berlin (prenzlauer berg), phone 030 411 98 366, open mo-sat 10-20 h, sun closed

glimpses of berlin

2011-04-19T10:03:00.002+02:00

the other day at the botanic garden.

the sun is out! surely a good time to start the beergarden season. prater, anyone?

slow travel day berlin, sunday 13 march 2011

2011-03-12T19:16:00.004+01:00

come on, be spontaneous and don't miss the first slow travel day berlin, tomorrow, sunday 13 march 2011. sorry for the short notice, but i only heard about it today.

the slow travel day will take place at the circus hostel on rosenthaler platz. there will be two city tours, a berlin wall tour, starting in the morning (meet and enrol at 9.15 am), and an urban sketching tour, starting a little later in the day (meet up and enrol at 1.45 pm). there will be a coffee tasting with sweet treats in the afternoon (from 4 pm; provided by berlin reified and foodie in berlin). also, film screenings, a beer tasting and music by dj robert lippok, founder member of legendary berlin-based electronica legends to rococo rot and more.

see, you can't possibly miss this, can you?

slow travel day berlin, at the circus hostel, sunday, 13 march 2011, tours at 9.15 am and 1.45 pm, more events in the afternoon and into the night, check out paul sullivan's slow travel berlin for more details.

see you there!

glimpses of berlin

2011-03-07T22:34:00.003+01:00

lunch with sylee the other day. s was there as well. what a good time we had! at sgaminegg, of course.

schaedel & sattler

2011-03-05T10:41:00.003+01:00

want a hearty stew for lunch, or a risotto? are simple wooden tables your thing? are you ready for the surprise that bare concrete walls can actually feel warm? schaedel & sattler is just that kind of place.

apart from the swiss/alpine-kitchen-inspired lunch dailies - the cooking is unpretentious and earthy -, i am particularly taken with their choice of small sweets to go with your coffee. i had an orange macaron, which was perfection.

bear in mind though that the place is small and has quite a number of regulars, so if you want to try it for lunch, go early, say 12.00 or 12.30. otherwise expect a little wait to get a table or have your lunch at one of their wall-mounted miniature tables, perched on a stool. or go after lunch for a coffee when the place has quietened down to a little hum.

if you are into architecture, read more about the building, designed by bararchitekten berlin, here.

find it here: schaedel & sattler, oderberger str. 56, 10435 berlin, open mon-fri 8-16h (please note this place is closed on weekends and doesn't serve dinner.)

glimpses of berlin

2011-02-16T17:11:00.003+01:00

taken at schaedel & sattler. more about them soon!

due to work, i've been slightly disorganised lately about keeping up with culture in berlin. still hoping to see a film or two at the berlinale film festival (which ends this sunday). in case you don't know, you can also buy tickets at eventim affiliated ticket booths around town to avoid queueing at the main pre-sale counters at potsdamer platz or kino international. they charge an extra 2 euro per ticket, but it is darn handy. also have my eye on the arno fischer show at berlinische galerie.

goldhahn & sampson

2011-02-10T20:59:00.004+01:00

goldhahn & sampson is a deli in prenzlauer berg that has been around for a few years. ever since then, their selection of dry goods - think spices, salts (all kinds of them - and oh, the packaging!), chocolate, tea and coffee, selected preserves - has grown, as has the impressive selection of wines. also on offer are fresh breads and a small choice of cheeses, some fruit and vegetables of the season and a wide range of cookbooks. if you feel like having a fresh cup of coffee after your shopping's done, there's a tiny seating area in the window and a chesterfield sofa in the back.

probably the most exciting thing is their programme of cooking classes. i've got my heart set on the french course (boeuf and crème brûlée). oh, and they sell vouchers too - a brilliant gift idea for people who've got everything...

find it here: goldhahn & sampson, dunckerstr. 9, 10437 berlin (prenzlauer berg), phone 030 411 98 366, open mo-sat 10-20 h, sun closed

konk (revisited)

2011-01-27T09:07:00.004+01:00

konk always seems to me like a peaceful island in the middle of the bustle of mitte. the entire shop is a gesamtkunstwerk, the colours, textures and cuts of the clothes are truly something else, the jewellery is fragile and unusual, sometimes chunky and a statement piece, and the accessories, namely their bags and scarves, are something i'd have a hard time choosing from.

what makes this boutique even more interesting, is the fact that it specialises in berlin fashion labels (check out their website for a list of represented designers) and that owner ettina berrios-negrón is a designer herself and currently working on her own line.

most beautiful are the mobiles floating under the high ceiling and the black chalk drawing of a little wood, covering the walls of the changing room.

find it on: kleine hamburger str. 15, 10117 berlin (mitte), phone 030-28 09 78 39, open mon-fri 12.00-20.00 h, sat 12.00-18.00h, sun closed

souterrain & supalife kiosk

2010-12-04T15:32:00.005+01:00

both souterrain (a gallery space run by the folks of sammlung hoffmann) and supalife kiosk (a space dedicated to graphic design) are holding special season events this weekend. don't miss!

souterrain boutique at souterrain, sophie-gips-höfe, sophienstr. 21, berlin (mitte), open sat 4 dec & sun 5 dec, 14-19 h only.
+++ special xmas feature, showcasing 49 artists. drawings, collages, objects and photographs, prices from 250 euros. this could be your starting point for collecting contemporary art +++

supalife kiosk, raumerstr. 40, 10437 berlin (prenzlauer berg), exhibition & sale open sat 4 dec & sun 5 dec, 12-19 h.
+++ christmas special, featuring birdwatching. graphic art works and design items by 19 international designers. also scheduled: talks and other events +++

pictures taken at the opening of souterrain boutique last night.

have a good weekend!

save the date: victoria met albert

2010-12-02T14:09:00.003+01:00

if you're like me and don't know how to possibly get all those gifts together in time (as annoyingly there's also some work to do), you might want to note victoria met albert's special sunday opening times: on sunday 5 dec and sunday 19 dec, the shop will be open from 13-19 h, and since it's most certainly winter here (you should see the snow!), tea and coffee will be served.

save the date: special opening times at victoria met albert, dunckerstr. 81, 10437 berlin (prenzlauer berg / on helmholtzplatz), sun 5 dec & sun 19 dec, 13-19 h.

victoria met albert

2010-12-02T13:45:00.004+01:00

you know how rare it is to find a shop that could be your one-stop place, don't you? i think this one could be it. victoria met albert is run by a brit/german couple and sells not only super nice gift items and decorative things, but also carries brands like sessún, french connection, lee jeans - you get the idea. a huge bonus is that they offer both women's and men's clothes and shoes. i really fell for some of the knitted jumpers, some shoes, the scrabble mugs and their most precious selection of jewellery. santa, will you bring me a victoria met albert voucher, please?

go, go, go.

find it here: victoria met albert, dunckerstr. 81, 10437 berlin (prenzlauer berg/on helmholtzplatz), phone:+49 30 4467 4772, open mo-sat 11-20 h.

sgaminegg (revisited)

2010-11-14T10:25:00.007+01:00

about high time to revisit sgaminegg, easily one of the nicest cafés in prenzlauer berg if you ask me. you may remember my first post about them, over a year ago. since then, the opening times have changed slightly, a small farmers' market has been initiated just outside its front door (every saturday, 10-16 h). oh, and i had the chance of trying some of their excellent white wines, which they don't just offer by the glass but also sell by the bottle in their small deli section. if you're curious about german and austrian whites (and you should! - don't think sweetly spaetlese or sickly rieslings, but crisp dry whites), you should definitely try them. if you've got more of a sweet tooth, why not try a coffee and some cake or a soft italian macaron, wrapped ever so nicely in white tissue paper.

last time i went, i took my pentax with me and took so many photos i had a hard time choosing. if you like them, find more on my flickr.

oh, and apart from their website, sgaminegg is also represented on facebook.

find it here: seelower straße 2, 10439 berlin (prenzlauer berg), open mon-fri 8.30-18.00h, sat 9.30.00-18.00h, sun closed.

apartamento launches new book series

2010-10-15T17:22:00.004+02:00

have you heard? apartamento magazine is about to launch a new book series, called 'everyday life books'. tomorrow afternoon (16 oct 2010), the first book from the series, 'the story of a mug: greetings from the factory' will be launched at do you read me?! in berlin. the weather has turned decidedly autumnal here - rainy, cold, with wet leaves lining the pavements - so what better thing to do than sit down with a good book and officially start candle season?

find it here: apartamento book launch @ do you read me?!, auguststr. 28, berlin mitte, saturday, 16 oct 2010, 5 pm-8 pm.

mario velardi (apartamento) and byggstudio will be there. mugs of tea and coffee will be served.

(by the way: should you have good book tips up your sleeves, let me know, i'm looking for more good reads - haven't read a good novel in ages!)

glimpses of berlin (and some news)

2010-09-23T10:37:00.004+02:00

some random berlin news for you: from october 31, 2010, easyjet flies direct from amsterdam to berlin (for a low-CO2 alternative, there's also a direct train connection). yay!

this saturday, september 25, 2010, the lomo store on friedrichstrasse hosts a lomo discovery tour. you can rent a camera with film, including a boat ticket, all for 15 euro. how cool is that. hop on over to berlin reified for more info and links.

the second issue of the gentlewoman is out and available at do you read me?! please leave a copy for me, will you?

pictures taken on sredzkistrasse in prenzlauer berg and on augustrasse in mitte.

farmers' market seelower strasse

2010-09-04T10:15:00.010+02:00

to whoever had the idea of having a farmers' market on seelower strasse: thank you! that certainly was an inspired move and a real alternative to the crowded market on kollwitzplatz.

i love strolling down the - still tiny - market, buying organic heirloom tomatoes, red chard, apples, jam and flowers. have a chat with the stall holders and round it all up with an armful of beautiful flowers and a coffee at sgaminegg, right next to the stalls, marvelling at my finds.

if you happen to live in the neighbourhood or visit prenzlauer berg: do come here. every customer is appreciated and we need markets like this!

oh, and before i forget - there are also stalls selling fresh fish, others for meat or for cheese. at sgaminegg, you can also have lunch, and buy fresh bread and wine.

famers' market on seelower strasse, sat 10.00-16.00 h

find it here: seelower strasse (between daenenstrasse and schivelbeiner strasse), prenzlauer berg, 10439 berlin. public transport: schoenhauser allee, walk into daenenstrasse, take the first street to the right and you're there. less than 5 mins walk from the station.

vineyard fest in baruth

2010-08-31T09:35:00.003+02:00

a couple of years ago, a group of friends decided to plant a vineyard in baruth (mark), an hour from berlin. this might sound surprising, given the northern climate, but in fact, baruth has a history of wine growing that has its roots in the 17th century. today, the vineyard in baruth is one of the very few operating vineyards in this part of germany (most of them being much further south).

every year in september, the small organic vineyard is having a little fest, and i always wanted to go but somehow never could. wouldn't it be a great place to spend a saturday afternoon? so here's a little teaser and directions (if you take the train from berlin, it's a one-hour journey). see you there?

baruther weinbergfest (vineyard fest in baruth)
saturday, 4 sept, 14-19.00
mühlenberg, baruth (mark)

all pictures courtesy: I-KU – Institut zur Entwicklung des ländlichen KulturRaums e.V.

café oliv (revisited)

2010-08-22T21:04:00.006+02:00

last week, when marion was in berlin, we took the chance to pay a little visit to café oliv. i thought you might like to come along, it's a place worth (re)visiting.

read more here

p.s.: i really like their white porcelain dishes with the black napkins.

glimpses of berlin

2010-08-11T22:35:00.001+02:00

magazines at bonanza coffee heroes.

café weltempfaenger

2010-07-20T09:45:00.004+02:00

café weltempfaenger is right next door to the flea market on arkonaplatz (the much smaller fleamarket in prenzlauer berg/mitte, compared to the mauerpark, but much better liked by me). handy if you want to have a coffee after your hunting and gathering. only catch: the service there is really slow. i thought i'd better tell you. i still go, 'cause it's so close to the market and i like the place, the interior, the atmosphere. so there.

find it here: weltempfaenger, anklamer str. 27, 10115 berlin, open daily from 9.00 h.

psst.: they do run a small b&b too. book early, if you want to go.

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glimpses of berlin

2010-07-19T09:22:00.005+02:00

let's start a new series hereabouts, shall we? every now and again, i will be posting random images from around the city, giving you glimpses of berlin. just moments. hope you enjoy.

top: bonanza coffee heroes
bottom: at the prater beer garden

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save the date: fête de la musique berlin

2010-06-19T10:22:00.004+02:00

don't miss the fête de la musique on 21 june (this monday).

in 1995, berlin embraced the french tradition of celebrating summer on 21 june with open air music events all over town. there will be stages everywhere, check out the full programme here.

last year, the weather wasn't perfect, but despite the odd drizzle, people where out on the streets with family and friends, listening to music. sitting on the pavement, the streets, the scaffolding of houses.

music-wise, you'll find anything from rock to singer-songwriter, pop, world music, electronica - you name it, they play it. the programme indicates which stages feature which kinds of styles. most open air stages are playing from 16.00-22.00h, some venues have indoor stages, where there'll be additional programme until the early morning hours.

where: everywhere in berlin, 21 june 2010, from 16.00-22.00 (some indoor venues until 6.00 am)

(photos from last year's fête at intersoup, schliemannstraße, prenzlauer berg)

currywurst at konnopke's

2010-06-19T09:47:00.005+02:00

it's going to be the end of an era. konnopke's is to prenzlauer berg what curry 36 is to kreuzberg. certainly the most traditional places in berlin to buy your curry wurst - a bratwurst, cut into pieces and doused with spicy ketchup, the (in)famous fastfood speciality of the city. now, konnopke's is going to close shop after 3 july 2010, 7pm, and move to temporary quarters until the autumn, when they will re-open in a new pavilion. if you want to catch a piece of old-school berlin popular culture, go in the next few days. i bet the new pavilion is going to be all modern and shiny and utterly non-descript.

one of the weird and wonderful features of this place is that you can actually buy gift vouchers (for 5 euro). now tell me, who wouldn't be delighted?

konnopke's imbiss, schönhauser allee, underneath the u-bahn bridge at eberswalder straße in prenzlauer berg. full address: schönhauser allee 44a, 10435 berlin (prenzlauer berg), open mon-fri 6.00-20.00 h, sat 12.00-19.00, sun closed.

möbelkombinat berlin

2010-05-29T11:28:00.005+02:00

i found möbelkombinat by chance, just riding my bike, on my way to mitte. it's basically located between mauerpark and arkona platz fleamarkets, however not open on market days (sundays).

what struck me most were the big statement lights - some real beauties that would easily make a whole room. a bit like a perfect pair of shoes that instantly transforms some jeans and a t-shirt into something very special indeed. there were some lovely teak chairs and side tables, and a most dramatic, sculptural light installation in brass that somehow reminded me of the big wall ornament in the writer's living room in das leben der anderen (the live of others). the only downside: if you fall for something that's bigger than your average bike basket or cabin trolley, you'll have to arrange transport yourself, they don't deliver. but you know, if you really want that sofa - where there's a will...

+++ PLEASE NOTE: MÖBELKOMBINAT IS CLOSED. THE SHOP DOESN'T EXIST ANYMORE. +++

find it here: möbelkombinat, wolliner straße 18-19, 10435 berlin (prenzlauer berg/mitte), phone: +40 (0) 30 51051 1234, open mon-sat 9.00-21.00 h

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where to stay in berlin

2010-05-27T13:07:00.006+02:00

ok. this post has been long overdue. the thing is, berlin has loads of hotels and i like to write about places i have firsthand knowledge of. living here of course means i'm not staying in hotels, so how would i know... still, i'm being asked too often to ignore the question. so here comes a very small selection of places to stay, that i have heard or read about time and again, or have even visited to take a look at for friends. it's a starting point, no?

budget

pfefferbett hostel, prenzlauer berg/mitte

a hostel with dorms as well as double-rooms. centrally located but still away from the busy main streets. the pfefferberg, an old factory compound, also houses restaurants, a beergarden, workshops and artist's studios. olafur eliasson has his studio here as well.

apartments

pfefferbett apartments, prenzlauer berg/weißensee

the same charity that runs the pfefferbett hostel also runs holiday apartments in berlin. they are located in prenzlauer berg or weißensee (a little further out to the east, get there by tram.)

quirky

hotel pension funk, charlottenburg

if you like vintage, authentic retro interiors, this is your place. some of the rooms don't have private bathrooms or showers, so make sure you check what you're booking. basic rooms are very affordable here. however, this place is located in the former west of the city, plan in some extra time to get to mitte, prenzlauer berg or friedrichshain and kreuzberg from here.

obvious

park inn berlin, mitte (alexanderplatz)

this is the only big highrise bang in the middle of alexanderplatz. the hotel has been refurbished and is very corporate. still, the prices are surprisingly moderate for this central location. alexanderplatz is not for the faint-hearted - as in loud and grimy - but it's kinda cool, in a trash way.

design

hotel amano, mitte

i guess this is what you would call a design boutique hotel. moderate prices and super conveniently located if you plan on discovering mitte and prenzlauer berg. very close to hackescher markt. rooms to the street might be a tad loud, since the tram rumbles past every five minutes or so.

blow the budget

soho house berlin, mitte

very new. if this is your cup of tea, certainly a place to crash in style.

hotel de rome, mitte

five-star. that's all i say.

if you need more choice, take a look at berlin unlike or check the regular hotel sites via your favourite search engine.

should you stay at one of these places, i'd love to hear what you think. drop me a line at twinklestar(at)gmx(dot)net

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pro qm bookshop

2010-05-26T09:54:00.004+02:00

have you ever been to a bookshop specialising in urbanism, politics, pop, architecture, design, art and theory? or ever wondered if such a place exists? well, it does. a whole bookshop, shelf after shelf filled with mind-blowing interesting, challenging reads. it's situated in mitte, not far from hackescher markt, and even closer to rosa-luxemburg-platz, but a little hidden. you may want to take a look at the map on their website to help you find it. it's worth the trip! oh, due to the profile of the shop, lots of their stock is in english, by the way. and of course they will help you find books and/or order them for you.

they also host events like book launches, panel discussions and the like. just sign up for their newsletter (which comes in german and english, even though the website is exclusively in german).

find it here: pro qm bookshop, almstadtstr. 48-50, 10110 berlin (mitte), phone: +49 (0)30 247 285 20, email: info(at)pro-qm.de, open mon-sat 11.00-20.00 h

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anna chron

2010-04-10T09:49:00.003+02:00

for a small, handpicked selection of vintage furniture, lamps, glass, porcelain and soft furnishings, head for anna chron. the tiny shop in prenzlauer berg, tucked away in a side street off schönhauser allee, is only open on selected days. that being said, you can also call for an interior design consultation or to have curtains made to measure from new or vintage material. don't miss this little gem.

find it here: anna chron möbelsalon, kopenhagener str. 64, 10437 berlin (prenzlauer berg), phone 0178 1661468, open tues + thurs 14.00-19.00 h. for appointments and consultations, call 0178 1661468

bar salumeria sigismondo

2010-01-18T22:18:00.003+01:00

the bar and salumeria sigismondo is a fairly recent addition to my neighbourhood. the other day, when i was waiting for a roll of film i had processed at the lab on the other side of the street, i stopped by. i had the most delicious plate of pasta with tomato and mozarella - absolutely simple and all the better for it.

although sigismondo's is located in a side street, it's less than a five minutes walk from subway stop schönhauser allee. go for lunch, or have a sandwich or some pastry with a coffee! aren't there some friends you haven't seen in a while and want to catch up with? meet at sigismondo's, you really can't go wrong there.

find it here. bar salumeria sigismondo, kopenhagener str. 6, 10437 berlin (prenzlauer berg), open mon-fri 9.00-19.00h, sat 10.00-18.00h, sun closed. (summer opening will be a bit longer, most probably from 8.00-20.00h - stay tuned!)

iittala berlin

2010-01-03T17:35:00.002+01:00

how lucky are we to have an iittala shop in berlin! needless to say, a treasure trove of colourful glassware and most delicately illustrated porcelain. i really love their classic, chunky candle holders made from coloured glass. some very interesting tones are in store at the moment. another high-light and great gift idea for friends who just had a baby: the moomin range. so cool! oh, and if you happen to need it yourself, or know someone who might, they also do wedding lists...

if you go and feel you need a little rest and some energy boost after your power shopping - café oliv is just across the street!

find it here: iittala shop berlin, münzstr. 7, 10178 berlin (mitte), phone 030-24 08 55 94, open mon-fri 12.00-20.00, sat 12.00-19.00, sun closed.

apartamento at do you read me?!

2009-11-20T16:12:00.003+01:00

berlin's fabulous magazine shop do you read me?! is having a sunday afternoon event with home-made cake and coffee to launch apartamento #4. kids welcome! it's been a long wait for the spanish interior magazine if you ask me, particularly because i wasn't able to get my hands on #3, no matter how hard i tried.

i guess it's going to be quite busy this sunday, so i might try and sneak in tomorrow to get a copy beforehand and curl up on the sofa with it...

do you read me?!, auguststr. 28, 10117 berlin (mitte), winter opening times mon-sat 10.00-19.30 h www.doyoureadme.de

maedchenitaliener (revisited)

2009-11-13T08:54:00.004+01:00

recently i went by mädchenitaliener in mitte to take a couple more photos and heard they had extended their opening times. you can now have lunch there, hooray! thought i'd let you know.

it's one of my favourite italian restaurants if you like no-fuss basic pasta dishes. it's certainly not a pizzeria or your nouvelle cuisine take on italian food. instead more rustic with a small menu, but certainly wonderful comfort food. since the tiny restaurant is a favourite with the mitte crowd, make sure you book a table if you want to go in the evenings. i'd also recommend you call in to double-check on opening times as they might change again in winter.

find it here, on alte schönhauser str. 12, 10119 berlin (mitte), open mo-sat from 12.00 (noon)-16.00 and and 18.00-23.30h, sun 18h-23.30h, phone: 030-4004 1787

remembering '89

2009-11-09T22:50:00.005+01:00

on 9 november, 1989, not long before midnight, thousands of east berliners walked across the bridge at bornholmer strasse into the western districts of the city. something impossible had happened. the berlin wall had begun to crack, and was coming down faster than anyone could blink.

today, twenty days later, i went over to bornholmer strasse to walk across the bridge. there were people everywhere. young couples pushing prams, teenagers, old people, all lined up on the bridge, some of them climbing on the metal framework, on the few remnants of the wall, on billboards. it turned out that angela merkel, the german chancellor was expected to turn up, together with michail gorbachev and lech walesa, to cross the bridge and give a speech. when they passed, all i could see was a few grey umbrellas (it was raining non-stop). but what struck me more than anything was the atmosphere. it wasn't loud at all. it was quiet. and i think what people were feeling was something like pride. the insistence of the people had finally won - freedom had been gained. and a new chapter had been opened.

happy birthday, fernsehturm

2009-09-30T23:02:00.003+02:00

believe it or not, berlin's television tower on alexanderplatz is turning forty on october 3, 2009. to mark the occasion, tickets sold that day will feature a vintage design and food served at the restaurant will commemorate the historic menu from 1969 (i dread to think what this may mean).

one of berlin's most distinct landmarks is surely worth a visit. if you don't manage to go on the day, do when you get the chance. a little cautionary note though: the service attitude of the staff is a bit on the stroppy side. just put on your zen mindset and you'll be fine. enjoy the view. have some black forest gateau. go late afternoonish and you'll most likely see the most amazing sunset.

did you know...

- that artist tacita dean did a wonderful film set in the tower's restaurant?

- that the tower is nicknamed 'the pope's revenge'? watch out for the cross-shaped shadow appearing on the metal cladding of the tower. the east german party officials are said not to have been delighted.

oh, and one more thing: if you don't fancy queuing for yonks and don't mind shelling out 20 euros, you might want to pre-book VIP tickets via their website.

find it on alexanderplatz, berlin mitte, open march-october daily 9.00-0.00, november-february daily 10.00-0.00, admission: adults 10.00 euro, children up to 16y 5.50 euro, children up to 3 y free entry, VIP ticket 19.50 euro

café oliv

2009-09-25T09:13:00.004+02:00

a few weeks back i first saw it briefly mentioned on holgarific (holga photographer matt's fab blog, check it out). since i'm a believer in the credo 'never run out of a good café to go to' i went to take a look. and how lucky that was! café oliv features grey walls, eames chairs, a chunky wooden table, lovingly placed orchids and vases with seabuckthorn - the place just got me as soon as i set my foot over the threshold. you'll be glad to hear that not only the amazing interior makes it well worth a visit, the coffee is pretty awesome too. should you feel peckish, you are spoilt for choice with baked goods. super yummy muffins, savoury tarts - you name it, they sell it. i tried to be good and only had a tiny almond cookie with my flat white. a dream.

the café is conveniently located near hackescher markt or alexanderplatz and if you are willing to take my advice: don't waste your time grabbing a coffee at one of the more touristy places there, but take the 5 minute walk over to café oliv. you won't regret it.

find it here: oliv, münzstr. 8 (münzstr. and almstadtstr.), 10178 berlin mitte, open mo-fri 8.00-19.00, sat 9.00-19.00, from october also open on sundays (check over on their website for times)

art galore

2009-09-23T23:04:00.005+02:00

this week you will be spoilt for choice looking for art events in berlin. not only has die kunst ist super! (art is super!), the current show at hamburger bahnhof just opened (photos in this post taken there), there are plenty of art fairs and exhibitions to be seen. go and check out art forum at berlin's old fair ground in the west, or preview art fair at tempelhof airport, or abc - art berlin contemporary at akademie der künste (held at their midcentury modern building in tiergarten, not the new venue at brandenburger tor). if you are still not tired, go and see thomas demand's big solo show at the new national gallery, mies van der rohe's spectacular and iconic building on potsdamer platz.

art rocks!

hamburger bahnhof: museum for contemporary art

2009-09-03T23:19:00.005+02:00

berlin has plenty of places for contemporary art, but the arguably biggest of them all is hamburger bahnhof, a former train station that houses the museum for contemporary art. unfortunately though, over the past few years, not much of the museum's various collections has been on display and since the museum doesn't have a permanent collection, you were quite often better off heading to other galleries in town. this is about to change, it seems. the museum has been appointed a new director who is presenting the museum's amazing collections in a new way. after tomorrow's big opening the show, titled die kunst ist super! (art is super!) will be open to the public and run from saturday, 5 september 2009 until 14 february 2010. can't wait to check it out!

when you visit, don't miss out on the fabulous bookshop. i've helped out there over the summer months, so trust me when i say it's an amazing selection of books they have in stock. be inspired!

the museum's café is run by celebrity chef sarah wiener. when the sun is out, sit out on the terrace and watch the boats on the river spree go by.

find it on invalidenstraße 50-51, 10557 berlin mitte (very close to berlin main station!), open tues-fri and 10.00-18.00, sat 11.00-20.00, sun 11.00-18.00, mon closed.

ice cream

2009-08-26T22:48:00.004+02:00

summer is still very much here in berlin. yesterday we had over thirty degrees celsius in the city. what better thing to do then, than picking up some ice cream and making the most of these late summer days? try eislabor in mitte or friedrichshain, the ice cream's not only yummy, the interior of the shop is some true eye candy too.

find it on auguststraße 63 (entrance on kleine hamburger straße/auguststraße), berlin mitte, and simon-dach-straße 9, berlin friedrichshain, phone 030 39 84 49 05, open on sunny days from late morning. hurry, they will close for the winter season (check out their website for more info).

wannsee

2009-08-14T23:32:00.003+02:00

well my dears, this weekend is going to be hot. on a whim, i'm off to the baltic sea. for those of you who stay in berlin or come for a visit: head to the wannsee! pack a little picnic, a towel and your swimsuit and don't forget the sun lotion. take the s-bahn or regional train to wannsee station and walk down to the ferry or take a bus to pfaueninsel or glienicke. then just walk along the lakeside and find yourself a spot to sit down and enjoy. you may also like these tips for a ferry trip to kladow or a cycling tour to sacrow.

and of course, there's biesenthal, if you prefer.

happy weekend!

award

2009-08-12T23:40:00.006+02:00

very kindly, hiki of jollygoo has passed the lovely blog award my way. i'm feeling very honoured - her blog (and her shop!) is so full of inspiration, thank you so much hiki!

i would like to pass the award on to a number of people for writing blogs that often make my day, that i go back to time and again to be surprised, inspired or challenged.

there are many more, so making a choice is tough and i'm sure, as i'm typing this, that as soon as i've posted this i'll wonder how on earth i could not have mentioned tons of others. but i've already taken far too long to think about this, so here goes, the lovely blog award goes to:

april of picnic

polly of sotto voce

b of cuttings on a blog

julie of moments of perfect clarity

kristina of vigdis et al.

lea of lea bolvig

brinja of brinja

thank you so much, all! please pass the award on to others if you like.

art biesenthal 2009

2009-08-09T19:45:00.004+02:00

for some reason i missed this event last year and i so want to go this time. art biesenthal is a small, privately organised art event outside berlin. the open weekend on 15 and 16 august sounds like the perfect resaon to take a look. the garden is open, there'll be a barbecue, a party and the opportunity to bring your own picnic - and just enjoy. obviously you go because you want to see the art - but i guess with this kind of programme you might even be able to convince a few friends to come along who feel a bit so-so about contemporary art. in any case, the line-up this year is quite impressive, artists include alicja kwade and via lewandowsky. what i find so fascinating about this place, is that it is an old building in the countryside not far from berlin (a 45 min train ride or drive away) that has been completely overhauled by an contemporary architect. which means, in this case, that only the facade of the old building was kept and a new building attached to its back. to me, that has a sort of movie set quality. very clever.

all pictures in this post: courtesy biesentahl.org. if i manage to go (this is one of the rare occasions where it would be really handy to have a car...), i'll post my own photos - and that's a promise!

art biesenthal 2009, 18 july-27 september 2009, open weekend 15-16 august, sat 12.00-24.00 h, sun 12.00-19.00 h, with barbecue, music and party, find more info here (including directions)

organic farmer's market

2009-08-04T21:27:00.004+02:00

berlin has many farmer's markets around town, quite famous are the markets on winterfeldtplatz (schöneberg) and maybachufer (kreuzberg). less known are the many smaller markets, among them the organic farmer's market on kollwitzplatz, taking place every thursday. regional farmers sell their organic produce, including fruit, vegetables, bread, cheese, meat, fish and flowers. alongside these stands, you'll find selected textiles, gifts, a small coffee stand. a lovely way to do your weekly shop, and opening times from 12.00-19.00 mean that you can go after work too!

find it on kollwitzstraße and wörther straße (prenzlauer berg), thursdays 12.00-19.00h

cafés in berlin: sgaminegg

2009-07-24T19:24:00.004+02:00

thanks so much for hanging in there. it's summer and i'm blogging much less. there's lots of work and the time i have to spare i tend to spend outside. after all, you never know how long it will stay sunny in berlin... thanks for your patience!

last week i spent one of my lunch-breaks at this small café/deli/restaurant in my neighbourhood, which i discovered via berlin reified, a great blog about food and design in berlin. go check it out!

sgaminegg offers simple dishes with a focus on southern german cuisine (think leberkäs with home-made potato salad), but equally offers a plat du jour like pasta, couscous or soup. you can also stop here for cake, coffee or tea. rather interesting is their small deli section, notably the bread. tuesdays and saturdays you'll get the most delicious loafs of white or sourdough breads.

since their location is a little off the beaten track (yet less than five minutes from u-bahn and s-bahn stops schönhauser allee), it's not too busy. that may change soon, though. so take your chance and make the most of it.

++ please note: sgaminegg has a summer break from 27 july-15 august ++

find it here: seelower straße 2, 10439 berlin (prenzlauer berg), open mon-fri 8.30-19.00h, sat 10.00-18.00h, sun closed.

back again

2009-07-18T10:07:00.004+02:00

thank you so much for hanging in there. as some of you may know, i've been to venice and the south of france. i promise to catch up and post some new berlin stories soon! for now, a little shot from venice. bus stops there sure look different to berlin ones (this one's the vaporetto stop at santa maria della salute. the guy with the red shopping trolley is fishing.) more pictures from my trip over on my other blog. see you soon!

summer break

2009-06-29T23:33:00.004+02:00

summer break until mid-july. i'm off to the south - have wonderful holidays or days at home!

photo taken at sacrower see (sacrow lake): take the ferry from wannsee to kladow, turn left at the landing and cycle towards sacrow (in this case, a map might be useful). once in sacrow village, turn right just after the nursery (garden supplies), follow the street until the end, then the path through the woods. at the steep stairs down to the little beach, leave your bike (unless you want to carry it down). chill on the beach or order pizza and ice cream at the italian restaurant nearby (or both). take care and see you in july!

konk

2009-06-23T10:14:00.003+02:00

i first discovered this shop years ago when it was still based in prenzlauer berg. konk has long since moved to mitte and shares its hip neighbourhood with do you read me?!, claerchen's ballhaus, KW kunstwerke and others. so no excuse not to go - you could do your art show, shopping stroll, lunch, magazine buying and after-lunch coffee all within a couple of hundred metres walking distance.

konk specialises in fashion by berlin-based labels like c.neeon, kaviar gauche or penkov, to name just a few. lables that have been building their reputation over the years and are increasingly making it big, so really, this could be your last chance to pick them up before you can't afford them. think clean lines, basic colours and sometimes daring patterns. a very young, urban chic.

even the interior of the shop itself is an artwork - watch out for the wall drawings on minimalist white walls and the fragile cabinets in which accessoires and jewellery are lovingly presented. one of my favourite necklaces was bought here - gold with a small leaf-like pendant and a clear crystal. go and discover for yourself!

find it on: kleine hamburger str. 15, 10117 berlin (mitte), phone 030-28 09 78 39, open mon-fri 12.00-20.00 h, sat 12.00-18.00h, sun closed

tweaking it

2009-06-21T22:58:00.002+02:00

there may be a few more changes to mostly berlin's layout over the next days. i hope you'll bear with me until all is settled. have a good start to your week!

claerchen's ballhaus

2009-06-16T12:03:00.008+02:00

if i had to pick one thing, only one, that represents berlin for me, it would have to be clärchens ballhaus. it's the east and the west, the old-fashioned and the hip, the old and the young, the past and the present. it's very berlin.

clärchen's is not just a ballroom, as the name would suggest, it's also a restaurant with a garden up front. in summer, you'll sit in between the flower beds for a pizza al fresco and a glass of wine, or a boulette (typical berlin meatballs) with potato salad and a beer, if you prefer. you can come for lunch, but my favourite is the evening, when dusk is settling late and slowly the lights come on, you hear the chatter of the diners and the footsteps of the waiters on the gravel paths.

when i came to take pictures, i asked one of the waiters for their opening times. he just looked at me as if i was out of my mind: "why, we don't have any. we open around 10 in the morning and then...". it's open end, you see. you wouldn't think this kind of thing could happen to you in germany, land of the over-organised, but the times they are a'changing... great!

inside, the old ballroom comes to life in the evenings. the gentlemen staffing the ticket box (entry is something like 2 or 3 euro), the cloakroom and the doors inside must be in their late seventies and are suitably grumpy, but easily pleased when you buy your ticket and hand over your coats. this being former east berlin, the crowd is amazingly mixed. come early (say around 9pm), and there'll be plenty of couples in their fifties, ballroom dancing to old-fashioned eurovision-song-contest-style music. the later the night, from eleven/midnight onwards, the higher the proportion of young and hip media people and artists, dancing along freestyle - i've never seen anything like it.

saturdays, there's live music, quite often with a swing band. you can also take dancing lessons in clärchen's amazing, morbidly chic spiegelsaal (mirror hall) upstairs. wednesdays, it's swing for beginners with lotta. the spiegelsaal is also hired out for weddings, parties or photoshoots. sundays, they often hold concerts (check out their website for dates and contact).

clärchen's located in the middle of berlin's gallery scene in mitte and not far from shopping hot-spots hackescher markt and alte schönhauser straße, so you could easily come for lunch or dinner after some inspiring gallery visit or rest your feet after a shopping spree. i love clärchen's, and chances are you will too.

pale blue eyes

2009-06-08T20:38:00.006+02:00

based on kastanienallee, pale blue eyes has those really stunning graphics on their window that catch your eye, even when whizzing past on your bike. and - no surprise - it is well worth your visit. the three owners hail from sweden, their mission, when setting out in 2006, was no less than selling swedish fashion to berlin. fab idea! when i was there, a guy came in to buy some jeans (they sell cheap monday and nudie jeans). meanwhile, i was browsing the girls' department and saw some really nice printed t's, one with a black-and-white drawing of a cat with very green eyes, another one with a curious, sombre and wise looking owl. plus an off-white oversized cardigan in the lightest knit i've ever seen, cotton trousers with an unsual drawstring and cute summer dresses and coats. very cool indeed. go and shop till you drop!

find it on kastanienallee 50/51, 10119 berlin (mitte), phone 030-54 49 18 67, open mon-fri 12.00-20.00h, sat 12.00-19.00h

do you read me?!

2009-06-05T20:57:00.006+02:00

located on auguststraße in mitte, this shop is entirely devoted to magazines. how cool is that. at do you read me ?! you will find printed matters on fashion, art, architecture, photography, literature and society. less so mainstream fare, but a wide array of independent or specialist publications. there's also a smaller selection of newspapers, both german and international as well as some international fashion magazines that you'd usually expect to find at a newsagent's in a big station or airport - only that this way you don't have to travel all that way. a hand-picked selection of art and photography books completes the shop's stock. expect to spend some time and probably more money than you had planned to. be inspired!

find it on auguststr. 28, 10117 berlin (mitte), phone 030-695 49 695, summer opening times: mon-sat 10.00-20.30h.

lass uns freunde bleiben

2009-06-03T10:13:00.005+02:00

lass uns freunde bleiben (let's stay friends) used to have a companian bar named ruf mich nie wieder an (don't ever call me again), now it's all by itself. that's not a problem though, if you ask me, it's nice enough as it is. the small bar and café is located at choriner straße and zionskirchstraße, close to kastanienallee but away from the buzz. the corner building is unrefurbished, just the way i like it, i hate it when they glitz up these kinds of buildings with bright orange or green paint as they do sometimes.

in the mornings and during the day you could stop by for a coffee, freshly squeezed orange juice and a croissant or a piece of cake or perhaps a sandwich. at night, it tends to be busy, so expect not to find a seat and just mix with the crowd in the often packed bar. since germany has issued its smoking ban in restaurants, clubs and bars, some places have opened up separate rooms where you can still have a fag. this bar, too, has a 'smoker's lounge'. they used to have a pool table at the back as well, i'm not sure if that still exists, forgot to check the last time i was there.

there are some tables outside on the pavement, too, if you feel like having your coffee out in the sun (just pray for good weather).

find it on choriner str. 12, 10119 berlin (prenzlauer berg), open mon-thurs 8.00-1.00 h, fri 8.00-3.00h, sat 10.00-3.00 h, sun closed.

bookshops // antiquariat thomas rauh

2009-05-28T10:51:00.005+02:00

this is most certainly going to turn into a whole bookshop series and you may well wish you hadn't got me started . . . it's taking all my will-power to pass them without stopping for a quick, hour-long browse. and since there are plenty of bookshops in this city, imagine how many mortifying moments i'm having each day when riding my bike through the city. anyway. here goes, the first one:

the simple neon sign, made from re-used vintage letters, spells it out - buecher (books). officially, the shop is named antiquariat thomas rauh, it's a secondhand bookshop. not too big and fairly relaxed. meaning you won't find an overly big selection of pricey first editions, more like a fair range of fiction and non-fiction, both hardback and paperback editions (prices start from 2 euro). also postcards and vinyl. a seemingly random selection of LPs, lots of east german classical music editions, quite a few 70s and 80s pop albums. fun to browse through. if you are seriously into vinyl though and know your stuff, you'd probably turn up your nose at this and should head for platten pedro's instead. take my word for it.

the graham greene novel is my latest purchase there, an east german paperback edition from 1965 (verlag volk und welt, leipzig) with a great illustrated cover. set me back 2.50 euro.

find buecher (antiquariat thomas rauh) on raumerstr. 3, 10437 berlin (prenzlauer berg), phone 030-44 35 78 28, open mo-fri 14.00-18.00h, sat 12.00-16.00h, sun closed.

haus der kulturen der welt

2009-05-24T19:21:00.009+02:00

haus der kulturen der welt (house of world cultures) is a landmark mid-century modern monument and of my favourite architectural highlights of berlin. and that's putting it mildly. i think i'm probably in love with that building. berliners, who have nicknames for almost all famous sights in the city, call it 'the pregnant oyster'. and it does have quite a dramatic, curving silhouette.

the building was designed by american architect hugh stubbins as american contribution to 'interbau 1957', a watershed post-war building exhibition in berlin, for which architects like le corbusier, alvar aalto and others planned and completed architectural projects. originally used as a congress hall, today the house of world cultures hosts a wide array of exhibitions and events, creating a platform for non-european art and culture in berlin. the programme is varied and ranges from art shows to concerts, film screenings, panel discussions and other media events. check out their website for events, further information on the history of the building and their mission statement. there's bound to be something worth seeing at any one time.

the house of world cultures also has a small bookshop and a café. in the summer months, you can sit outside - from the terrace you can see the boats on the river spree go past. and maybe you'd like to go for a walk in the tiergarten park. it's also easy to walk from here to the reichstag or brandenburg gate if you have plans to do so (i reckon a 15-20 min walk).

find it on john-foster-dulles-allee 10, 10557 berlin (tiergarten), phone (box office) 030-39 78 71 75, open mon-sun 10.00-19.00 h (exhibitions wed-mon 11.00-19.00h), for events see their programme

prater theatre and café

2009-05-18T22:51:00.008+02:00

for quite a while they've been refurbishing the prater theatre, next door to the prater beer garden and restaurant. the stage is being used by the ensemble of berlin's volksbühne, one of the most progressive in town. their productions tend to be experimental, pretty much in-your-face theatre. to my knowledge, they don't do english surtitles (as some of the other berlin theatres do on certain days), so you'll need a bit of german. that being said, you could of course simply skip the theatre business altogether and just sit in their funky lobby-cum-café, or - if the sun's out - out on the pavement on one of the café's cool benches, sip your latte and watch the crowd on kastanienallee.

check out their website here (only partly in english).

find it on kastanienallee 7-9, 10435 berlin (prenzlauer berg), phone (box office) 030-44 35 18 27, box office open daily 12.00-18.00 h, shows start at different times, check their website here

+++ UPDATE: THE PRATER CAFE IS CURRENTLY CLOSED FOR REFURBISHMENT. WILL LET YOU KNOW WHEN IT'S OPEN AGAIN (state of play, spring 2010) +++

opening: temporary city

2009-05-16T23:14:00.011+02:00

went to the opening of art project temporary city yesterday night. i liked: the many languages spoken, seeing that young and old (and even dogs) were obviously enjoying themselves. i liked: the cake project by anouk kruithof (and yes, we were meant to have that cake and eat it), the paintings by nele tas, the performance by paul hendrikse (a re-enactment of led zeppelin's famous drum solo 'moby dick'), the shortcut by stijn van dorpe, the 'aliens' by katrin plavcak. at the same time, i'm not entirely convinced that the place was big enough for works by so many different artists. in any case, i'll be watching out for their future shows.

riding my bike home through kreuzberg and mitte was so nice that night. i don't know what conclusion the artists themselves are drawing from their experiment of collaborating directly, without a curator. personally, i think it may have shown that the point is not so much whether you showcase work in a white cube or not, but rather that the individual works need space. i think every work has an inherent 'breathing' space and that moving other works or objects into this space is making it that much harder to really see that work. perhaps it is an art in itself to determine this. i bet there are tons of critics who would strongly disagree...

five a day - greengrocers in berlin

2009-05-16T10:43:00.011+02:00

berlin wouldn't be berlin without its many, mostly turkish and asian greengrocers. they are almost everywhere and i love shopping there.

turkish greengrocers will usually not only offer a wide range of fruit and veg (and don't forget, they are good for you...), but also a selection of fresh mezze like tabouli, houmus, olives, as well as mediterrean dry or canned goods like bulgur, tahine, chick peas etc. oh, and turkish bread! most turkish greengrocers are based in the western districts of Berlin, but you can get lucky and find some in prenzlauer berg or friedrichshain, too.

asian green grocers, on the other hand, usually stock local produce as well as asian greens, roots and herbs like pak choi, ginger, coriander, thai basil etc. plus very often a range of frozen sea-food, spring rolls and fish. my neighbourhood asian greengrocer's doesn't stock too much fresh produce but the biggest selection of asian dry goods, sauces and pastes i've ever seen outside a wholesaler's.

so no matter if you live here and have just finished doing your shopping list (what about a thai green curry for dinner tonight?) or are here for the weekend and plan a day out with a picnic (your chance to get some mezze, turkish bread and fresh fruit) - go on, head for your next greengrocer's, you know you want to...

reminder // temporary city

2009-05-14T23:37:00.003+02:00

just a quick reminder that tomorrow night (friday, 15th may 09) will see the opening of exhibition project temporary city in kreuzberg. for more info take a look here. (photo: temporary city blog).

misses & marbles

2009-05-13T13:23:00.004+02:00

misses & marbles, a tiny café-cum-gift-shop has opened its doors near helmholtzplatz in prenzlauer berg not so long ago. perfect if you are looking for a small gift or a berlin souvenir that's a bit unusual: say, cookie cutters in the shape of the brandenburg gate oder the television tower or childrens' books entitled 'berlin loves you', featuring döner-stands alongside more predictable sights of the city. also screen-printed t-shirts, hand-made stuffed toys from vintage fabrics and various knick-knacks. colourful and sweet.

homemade cakes and coffee are served here as well.

find it on raumerstr. 36, 10437 berlin (prenzlauer berg), phone 030-49 78 62 82, open mon-sat 10-19h, sun 11-18h.

passing it on

2009-05-11T23:38:00.004+02:00

after some serious list-making and lots of thinking there was no avoiding the fact that i had to finally make a decision. who to pass that lovely award on to, that is. i wish i could send it over to more of you - i love reading all your posts and being inspired by them!

well, here goes:

jane at spain daily - for intriguing me with her everyday stories and thoughts from spain and for taking me on for the corner view journey. thank you so much!

jeannette at sans soucis - for her stories about potsdam, france, flea markets and gardens and her oh-so-lovely still-life arrangements. bedankt!

marie-eve at toujours dimanche - for sharing the vision of her very own bakery-cum-café and how it is becoming a reality. so inspiring to see people who follow their dreams!

chiara at minimal chronicles - for taking the trouble to translate some of her wonderful italian recipes from cronache minime into english and sharing her gorgeous food photography. (and for being the first one ever to have commented on this blog when i hadn't even posted a proper story yet!)

a big thank you to all of you! -

and to jo at simple pleasure, who started this by giving the award to me in the first place. tausend dank!

photoautomat

2009-05-11T22:49:00.006+02:00

i don't know when i started noticing these old-fashioned photo machines, but they are dotted around berlin and have that old-school photomaton aura - none of that digital preview nonsense, this is real photography. and all (4 shots) for 2.00 euro. what a bargain. plain black-and-white shots. you'll pretty much have a guarantee of looking very pale and artsy, as if you were living on black gauloises and espresso.

the photoautomat website tells you where to find them - my pictures show the machines opposite the prater beer garden on kastanienallee 98, 10435 berlin (prenzlauer berg). open daily (unless broken).

surprise

2009-05-10T19:30:00.007+02:00

this morning mostly berlin has been given its first award by jo at simple pleasure. wow. is it ok to be a bit dumb-struck when this kind of thing happens? thank you so much jo, it's a real honour!

so, what can i say, maybe just let me promise to share many more personal glimpses of berlin with you and to take my camera with me wherever i go ...

i guess i'll have to do a bit of thinking on who to pass this award on to - so many spring to mind, it's definitely not going to be an easy one. stay tuned!

prater beer garden & restaurant

2009-05-09T22:36:00.006+02:00

the sun's out, and although it's still officially spring, the beer garden season has started. i know this for a fact, i just checked this afternoon. now, don't be puzzled, i know we're not in munich and a far cry from bavaria, where the beer garden rules, but berlin is not missing out. the prater beer garden on kastanienallee is the oldest of its kind and was founded in 1837. just imagine the amounts of beer that have been drunk here. or don't, actually.

what i love about this place is that it's shaded by ancient chestnut trees, which give it a very special atmosphere. the place offers 600 seats, but in summer, finding a seat can be difficult, so bring along a bit of patience (that goes as well for the queues at the bar and food stall, it's all self-service and cash-only) and enjoy the buzz of the place. apart from beer you'll get all kinds of cold drinks here, plus sausage (yes, of course), potato or pasta salad, olives and other small snacks at the food counter. oh, and cake and ice-cream, i think. there's a playground, in case you are coming with the family.

if you fancy a more substantial meal, the prater restaurant is open throughout the year. think home-made german/austrian cuisine - wiener schnitzel, königsberger klopse, senfeier, meatloaf. not exactly cheap, but rather delicious.

p.s.: don't let yourself be fooled by the pictures - in summer, it's usually really crowded here. you could of course beat the queue by coming in spring ...

p.p.s.: amy, this one's for you! it's not quite the same without you and max ...

find it on kastanienallee 7-9, 10435 berlin, phone 030-448 56 88 (bookings for restaurant only)

beer garden open april-sept, daily from 12.00h (weather permitting)

restaurant open all year round, mon-sat from 18.00-23.00h, sun from 12.00h

** please note that even the restaurant has a cash-only policy (oh, i know...) **

bonanza coffee heroes

2009-05-08T10:25:00.007+02:00

this is the best coffee in berlin, i swear! the big, flashy machine they use is a special import from seattle (i'm not joking here, it's true) and their coffee truly is a form of art. most aromatic, not a trace of bitterness or acidity in any cup that gets served here. alongside your coffee you can have a slice of new york cheese cake or cookies or carrot cake from barcomi's (and that's the best cheesecake in berlin, no doubt about that). most of the time, there's also a copy of gourmet magazine hanging around, in case you're coming by yourself and fancy something to read. bonanza's is tucked away at the far end of oderberger straße in prenzlauer berg. you could go after a stroll down kastanienallee of after visiting the flea market on arkonaplatz (which is a 5-min walk from here).

don't let my outburst of superlatives keep you from checking out this place. seriously.

find it on oderberger straße 35, 10435 berlin (prenzlauer berg), phone 0178-1 44 11 23

NEW OPENING TIMES: open daily, mo-fri 8.30-19.00 h, sat-sun 10.00-19.00h

temporary city

2009-05-07T10:16:00.006+02:00

before i forget: i wanted to tell you about an upcoming art show here in berlin. temporary city is an initiative by a group of mostly belgian and dutch contemporary artists - among them paul hendrikse and nele tas - taking place in kreuzberg, 16 may-7 june.

in the courtyard of atelierhof kreuzberg, there will be discussions, music and events. check out their website (english & german) for more details. opening night is friday, 15 may from 19h. i'm so going!

find it on schleiermacherstr. 31-37 (atelierhof kreuzberg), 10961 berlin (kreuzberg), u-bahn U7 gneisenaustraße or U6 mehringdamm, open 16 may-7 june, thurs-sun 14-20h (followed by music or films on site).

c'est tout

2009-05-05T18:27:00.004+02:00

i had read a couple of times about this shop and was curious to go and see for myself. the space is rather small but a real treasure chest of colours. or wait, the space is really a soft neutral backdrop, while the clothes come in nearly all shades of the rainbow. c'est tout is selling their own label - soft jersey dresses and tops, simple but elegant and in lovely quality - plus lovely shoes from belgium as well as selected accessories. i like.

if you feel like injecting a little bit of colour into your wardrobe, look no further...

find it on mulackstr. 26, 1009 berlin (mitte), phone 030-275 955 30, open mo-sat 12-19h

fleury

2009-05-03T19:46:00.004+02:00

now - i won't be mean and keep this to myself, although i have to admit that's tempting. fleury is a french café on weinbergsweg in mitte, close to rosenthaler platz, that has established quite a devoted following over the past two or three years. this being no restaurant, you won't find elaborate dishes on the menu, but great snack basics - the usual suspects you might say: quiche (various sorts), croque monsoir, salads, baguette sandwiches (such as the garcon with rillettes and cornichons and other delicious variations). this may not sound too exciting, but trust me, it's all freshly made, they don't take any culinary shortcuts here, as simple as the dishes are. of course, you'll also find honest tarts and good coffee to round it all off. selected french dry goods are on sale as well. oh, and of course you can have lovely breakfast here.

sit outside if the weather is good and watch the world go by. bear in mind that this is a self-service place - order at the counter, they'll serve the food at your table.

find it on weinbergsweg 20, 10119 berlin (mitte), phone 030-44 034 144 open mo-fri 8-22h, sat-sun 10-22h

maybachufer market

2009-04-30T22:23:00.007+02:00

i took these photos a while ago - this turkish market on the canal in kreuzberg/neukölln is a riot of colours, scents and sounds. definitely not for the faint-hearted: whole families complete with pram and shopping-trolleys are haggling over boxes of grapes or tomatoes, it's always super crowded. imagine a busy saturday at ikea - and double that. just to give you a vague idea.

if you are brave enough, it's well worth a visit. not only is the choice of fruit, vegetables and flowers hard to match, the place is also a good stop if you are looking for sewing materials (fabrics, buttons, zippers) or colourful everyday kitchen utensils. at the far end of the market, you'll find stalls with organic produce, oriental sweets or savoury foods as well as coffee. a true adventure!

find it on maybachufer, 12047 berlin (neukölln), open tue & fri 11-18.30h (except public holidays).

stue

2009-04-30T19:00:00.005+02:00

one of my favourite shops ever in berlin. stue (danish for 'living room') is specialising in furniture and living accessories from denmark. most is vintage pieces - think mid-century, sixties, seventies - but also hand-picked items from small berlin designers. you'll find a mid-century teak sofa next to a contemporary hand-made lampshade or necklaces crafted by an berlin artist. one of the things i bought here is a panton sea shell chandelier, a piece that makes me happy every time i see it - so worth every cent of its price tag.

also on offer: upholstery service for vintage furniture. take a look at the sample book, gorgeous colours and qualities. plus: a selection of vintage bang & olufsen stereos.

find it on torstr. 70, 10119 berlin (mitte), phone/fax 030-247 276 50, open mo-sat 14-19h and by appointment

blau

2009-04-28T23:41:00.005+02:00

what can i say: this shop is just beautiful. blau (blue) is situated on small but worth-your-visit mulackstraße in mitte and has a clear theme running through - floorboards, custom-made wooden stairs and platform are painted bright blue. set off against this vibrant colour are the rather lovely clothes and accessories on sale; labels include antik batik, isabel marant and other exciting designers from europe and japan. this being the off-season store of schwarzhogerzeil, a shop just a few houses down, you'll find great pieces at marked-down prices.

find it on mulackstr. 23, 10119 berlin (mitte), phone 030-75 44 22 10, open tues-sat 14-18h, closed sun & mon.

glücklich am park

2009-04-28T23:08:00.003+02:00

glücklich am park (happy by the park) is a branch of nearby kauf dich glücklich (shop yourself happy) on oderberger straße. founded by two designers, this is one rather unusual café and shop. their trademark are the mix-and-match bright and colourful chairs and tables that dot the wide pavement; their speciality the waffles baked to order and the up to 60 self-made icecream flavours on offer.

if you haven't got a sweet tooth or are into sleek, minimalist interiors, don't go - this would be your absolute nightmare. otherwise: enjoy!

find it on kastanienallee 54, 10119 berlin (mitte), open (café) daily 12-18h, (shop) daily 11-20h.

wald

2009-04-28T10:46:00.003+02:00

this amazing little shop sells bags and accessories. wald (forest) has a hand-picked selection of fantastic slouchy big bags in the softest leather, but also cool canvas bags with leather patches that i've been eyeing for a while... prices for the canvas bags start at around 75 euros, leather bags will put you back from 150 euros onwards, most of them are priced around 300 euros.

i particularly like the back of the store with the big mirror and an installation of birch trees. go and see for yourself!

find it on alte schönhauser str. 32c, 10119 berlin (mitte), phone 030-60 05 11 64, open mo-fri 12-19.30h, sat 12-18

le midi

2009-04-28T10:30:00.003+02:00

a tiny french café opened in my neighbourhood last year. le midi serves lovely patisserie, teas and coffee and has a small selection of french specialities to take away - think fleur de sel, tapenade, rillettes, honey, crémant... the owner told me just the other day that they are extending the café a little bit and will soon be licensed to serve their crémant (and wine, of course!) in-house. i'll be one of the first to come and have a glass! oh, the café will then be opening longer into the evening as well. will keep you posted.

find it on greifenhagener str. 17, 10437 berlin (prenzlauer berg), open mo-sun 10-18h

gallery weekend berlin

2009-04-27T11:45:00.004+02:00

just a quick one: this coming weekend will see the gallery weekend, meaning lots of openings and extended opening times for most major galleries. definitely one of the best chances for an evening of gallery-hopping with lots of discoveries to be made. buy a day pass for public transport or go by bike to make the most of this event - venues lie across the city, mostly in mitte and on heidestraße (near hauptbahnhof).

check out galleries and opening times (most openings on friday, 1 may) here or here.

if you happen to be in mitte and need a break in between, have a pizza at clärchen's ballhaus - with this weather and a bit of luck you could sit outside and watch the crowd go by.

oh, and before i forget: on saturday, 2 may, KW (kunstwerke) will hold their opening night. certainly not to be missed! more info here.

flea market on arkonaplatz

2009-04-26T16:43:00.006+02:00

i love sundays! most flea markets in berlin are held at the weekend, the majority of them on sundays. head for arkonaplatz (officially in mitte, but very close to prenzlauer berg) for vintage fashion, furniture, crockery and lots of diverse bric-à-brac. you'll find professional sellers and local people clearing out their closets alike. the market is small and prices are medium-range, but the selection is nice and there's been hardly a time when i left it empty-handed.

a favourite of mine is berlin artist thomas czimczik's stall with vintage shoes (some belts and bags thrown into the mix as well). i've bought many shoes there - he's very helpful and his prices are good! say hello from me when you go... :)

by the way: the close-by mauerpark flea market has been rather hyped these past few years. i used to like it in the beginning but now i tend to find it overcrowded, while the quality of goods is often poor. the last couple of times i've been, i was quite disappointed. so if you ask me: definitely arkonaplatz!

find the flea market on arkonaplatz, 10435 berlin, open sun 10-16h.

feet up

2009-04-26T11:45:00.006+02:00

well, i've been a busy bee yesterday, trying to find more interesting shops, boutiques, cafés and restaurants for you - and maybe it wasn't the greatest idea wearing my newly favourite, fleamarket-found heels when doing so. ouch.

then i remembered that little hidden green gem in mitte, the 'alter garnisonsfriedhof', a tiny old cemetery-turned-park. if you're not the kind of person who finds this kind of place creepy by default, you'll discover an idyllic oasis. get a coffee and a sandwich in some of the nearby restaurants or cafés - many do sell out of house - pick a bench and kick off your shoes. bliss.

p.s.: as with most places in berlin, this cemetery has a very complex history. founded in the 18th century and in use until 1947, it spans a wide stretch of german history. if you'd like to find out more about the cemetery's history, there's an exhibition (in german) in the small building at the entrance. some basic info can be read here.

find it on kleine rosenthaler str. 3, 10119 berlin (mitte), open april-sept 7-19h, oct-march 7-16h

A.P.C.

2009-04-25T20:32:00.004+02:00

A.P.C. run their berlin branch in a small side street in mitte. small is not to say boring, mind you. on mulackstraße you find lots of little gems - some berlin labels have their flagships here, but there's also a nice selection of little boutiques with a range of labels, a vietnamese restaurant and a small coffee shop. take your time when here.

A.P.C.'s shop is not too big but slick with all the latest goodies you expect.

find it on: mulackstr. 35, 10119 berlin (mitte), open mo-fri 12-20h, sat 12-18h, phone: 030-28 44 91 92

mädchenitaliener

2009-04-25T20:21:00.005+02:00

mädchenitaliener (girl's italian) - i'm afraid i can't enlighten you about the choice of name, you'll have to ask the waiter when you visit... it's a busy, small italian restaurant in mitte. be sure to book your table in advance, unless you are coming weekdays really early on. basic, no-frills dishes, medium prices, the crowd's dominated by mitte's typical media people. i love their prosciutto with mozarella and fresh fig starter.

find it on alte schönhauser str. 12, 10119 berlin (mitte), open mo-sun from 17h, kitchen open from 18h-23.30h, phone: 030-4004 1787

makoto / japanese noodles

2009-04-25T20:13:00.004+02:00

this place in mitte serves no-fuss japanese noodle soups and other mains and starters (but no sushi). love it!

find it on alte schönhauser str. 13, 10119 berlin (mitte). open: mo-fri 12-16h and 18-23h, sat 12-23h, sun closed. phone: 030-97 89 38 57

the ferry from wannsee to kladow

2009-04-25T19:38:00.004+02:00

this is one of my favourite day trips ever.

from s-bahn stop 'wannsee' you can walk over to the ferry pier. the ferry to kladow is marked 'BVG-fähre' (BVG being the berlin transport services) and leaves every full hour. the best thing is, you can use your s-bahn ticket. be there early, though, as particularly in summer the ferry is full up easily and it's all on a first come, first served basis ...

the ferry trip is roughly twenty minutes, enjoy! once you're in kladow, you can go for a walk. head to the right leaving the pier for the old manor house and the public park, where you can have a picnic or take a bath in the lake, if you're brave enough. the sandy parts on the water front are tiny though and few and far in between, the best thing is to just go with your picnic and something nice to read and see what spot takes your fancy.

alternatively, you can settle for one of the beer gardens right next to the pier or turn left and walk up to 'la riviera'. nice views onto the lake, but definitely not chi-chi. rustic and slightly run-down pizza place.

the ferry back from kladow is always half past the hour, but make sure you catch the last one (around 6.30pm in the summer). check time-tables on the BVG site.

what's coming

2009-04-18T13:52:00.000+02:00

omce i have a bit more time, i'm hoping to use this blog to share my favourite corners of berlin with you. stay tuned!